Upon landing in Osaka we were instantly amazed by the cleanliness, the friendliness and the incredible bathroom technology! All the toilets had heated seats that washed and dried your butt (there is a different wash for men and women...I tried both, but couldn't tell a significant difference). Once we landed we got on the train conveniently located across from the airport. After 5 months in China, it was unbelievable to find all public transportation in the same area, and clear signs marking the whereabouts of all forms of transportation. We took a 2 hour train to Kyoto, the former capital of Japan (population 1.47 million). It contains most of Japans cultural sites including 1600 Buddhist temples and over 400 Shinto Shrines.
We stayed at a hostel that replicated the traditional idea of tatami mats. Everywhere you went you had to take off your shoes, even restaurants!
The cool toilets :o)
Our room in Kyoto
On the first day we wandered around Kyoto, getting a feel for the city. We were a little tired and disoriented from our travels. Kyoto was a noticibly older town, which we later found out was a popular place to retire to from Osaka. We had an early dinner of curry and udon noodles at a little gramma and grandpop restaurant. It was quite delicious. We retired early to our hostel, only to find complimentary sakki for guests at 8pm. We sat on the floor, drank hot sakki and met other travelers from Chicago, New York, and Australia.
The next morning was Christmas, we got up early and figured out the city buses site see in Kyoto. The bus was unbelievable! Unlike China where everyone forces their way on pushing for the one available seat. Everyone in Japan calmly waited in line and filed in an orderly fashion from the back to the front of the bus. At times the bus became awefully crowded and in that event people were forced to get off through the entrance in the back, but always came up the from to pay the bus driver who thanked every person for riding his bus!
Our first stop was a Zen Buddhist temple called Royan-Ji founded in 1450. This temple is surrounded by gorgeous gardens (even in the middle of winter), and is famous for it's chi-lake and rock garden. It was slightly raining, but still absolutely gorgeous and so peaceful.
Chi-Lake
This was the indoor area where the Japanese Rock Garden was located. There was steam coming off the moss roofs.
Morning meditations
This is a place for washing hands, they were all over the city, especially throughout the temples. In Japanese it the characters written on the stone translate directly as "I find just enough" or "I must learn to be content." Jeremy bought a replica which he turned into a necklace. Stephanie also bought me a slightly larger one one for my birthday.
Inside of the temple.
Even in the winter the gardens were beautiful with streams and bright red berries everywhere.
After this we wanted to go to a larger temple across town, so we got in our first Japanese taxi. I was shocked by the fact that they drove on the left side of the road. It was such a different experience than China, the taxi doors open automatically, the driver changed the radio to English music, and we didn't almost die at any point along the way.
The next temple we visited was called Kiyomizu-Dera. This temple was first built in 798, but due to fire, the present buildings were reconstructed in 1633. This temple is affiliated with the Hosso school of Buddhism, and is the most famouos in Kyoto.
On our way up to the temple there was a long uphill pedestrian street called Chawa-zaka, or Teapot Lane, with a lot of street venders and shops. We tried all kinds of different Japanese street food, many of which tasted like fish.At the front of this temple there is a downstairs area called Buddah's Belly or Inside Buddah. You take off your shoes, and walk down worn wooden steps into a pitch black corridor. With your left hand you hold onto large prayer beads which guide you through this pitch black maze where you couldn't tell if your eyes were opened or closed. It was a really neat feeling. All you could concentrate on was the warn beads in your hand and/or the cold stone floor under your feet. At the end of this maze there was a large stone engraved with a Japanese character and illuminated by a single overhanging light at the end of the tunnel (I suppose). At this point you were supposed to make your final wish, or offer up your prayer. It was a really incredible experience.
From here we entered the temple. It was much larger and more elaborate. There were families praying together and offering money and painted wooden prayers.
On the bottom level of the the temple is a waterfall called Otowan-no-taki, where you are supposed to drink the sacred waters which are believed to have therapeutic properties.
The three streams of water stand for wealth, health, and longevity (or love, we heard both). You are only supposed to choose 2 out of 3 to avoid greed.
Basking in the sun.
The Kyoto skyline.
sideview of the temple.
Old part of the temple that was only kind of burned down.
Buddha Shrine
Painted prayers.
Old and New Skyline
Walking back down the mountain.
Below the temple there are two streets called Ninen-zaka and Stanen-zaka which have been restored to their orignial look, with old wooden houses and shops.
Random shrines and prayers all over Kyoto
After leaving the traditional neighborhood we went to Gion, which is known for it's Geisha district as well as the lights, restaurants and shops. We actually saw a real live Geisha scurrying through the streets. She was carrying a stack of books and in a hurry.
Sushi dinner on tatami mats.
(notice Jeremy's new necklace)
After dinner we headed to the city center, which was comprised of malls and more malls.
We stumbled into an old whiskey bar where the bartender knew some English and noticed Jeremy's necklace and translated it for him. It was really cool we were the youngest ones in there by about 30 years.
From there we headed back to the hostel to rest before more fun adventures!
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